Saturday, December 19, 2009

Los Angeles – 18 December 2009

Had a fairly uneventful flight from London to Los Angeles – a slow check-in meant that I only had about 20 mins once I got through security which did mean that I only had a brief chance to get some food (I hadn’t actually eaten all day, apart from some chocotofs!), grab a couple of magazines and get Mum her requested Clinique. Air NZ is departing from Terminal 1 now so it’s all a lot quieter there, shopping-wise.

I was dreading the long immigration line at LAX but they really seem to have sorted themselves out since my last visit – it only took about 5 mins and my luggage came in about 5 mins as well! But I was picked up as a person of interest by customs, and so my luggage was searched – I’ve been watching Nothing to Declare (Australian customs and immigration programme) so of course I immediately felt guilty with no cause! Was I carrying $10,000 in cash and had forgotten about it? My luggage was pretty packed in though, and had some odd bits and pieces in it (I am moving countries!!) but he must have thought I was pretty strange with a pair of scissors in my luggage! So that was a little traumatic, but thankfully I hadn’t packed anything absent mindedly that might have been a problem!!

Got a cab to my hotel, the Miyako, in Little Tokyo, really close to Union Station and went almost straight to bed! It had been a loooong day.

After a interesting but filling Japanese/American combo breakfast (salmon pieces as well as bacon) I proceeded on my walking tour of Los Angeles – I walked up to Union Station which is gorgeous, and has been kept really well – there are lovely leather comfy chairs to sit in, tiled waiting gardens, a couple of little bars and old signage. Everything was very Spanish-inspired with tiling and terracotta colouring. Next stop on the tour was the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels – the guide on the podcast walking tour just gave the street location, and I was wandering around looking for a traditional old cathedral which it’s not at all – very modern with no right angels at all. Huge mural inside with pictures of 150 saints, including controversially Mother Theresa! Walked along to the Walt Disney Concert Hall, which I was absolutely dazzled by! It was really sunny and hot by this stage so I was sweltering in my autumnal wardrobe! The concert hall was designed by Frank Gehry around the same time as the art gallery in Bilbao and is quite similar – all curves and bright stainless steel. There is a garden at the back, which has a lovely fountain based on roses and Delft pottery (Walt Disney’s wife’s two passions). Sadly there were no tours running when I was there as the amphitheatre was in use, but I had a wander around in the foyer. Apparently the acoustics are phenomenal so it would be good to return!

There are lots of tall, new, shiny office blocks in the area, but a couple of blocks east, the buildings are older, more run-down and taken over as cheap shops and food courts – not very attractive and much grittier! Even the Jewellery Quarter (which is huge) is a bit grim – not as nice as somewhere like Hatton Garden in London, or the diamond shops in Antwerp. There were quite a few people coming up asking me for money (I must have really looked like a tourist!) so that wasn’t that enjoyable!
Other highlights of the tour included the Million Dollar Theatre on Broadway, and the Millennium Biltmore Hotel, but the best bit for me was the Bradbury Building which was gorgeous on the inside, although you’d never know from the exterior! The building was built in 1893 and is about six stories high - the foyer has loads of natural light and there are wrought iron staircases and lifts, all beautifully restored. It’s been used in loads of films, including extensively in Bladerunner (pre-renovation).

I also had the excitement of seeing about six unmarked police cars racing by, followed by a SWAT team truck!

Before I caught my train, I went to MOCA (Museum of Contemporary Art) to check out their permanent exhibition – a really good selection of 1939-79 modern art.

Caught my train nice and easily – I decided to spend the extra $14 (the standard one way fare from LA to San Diego is $29) for a business class seat – so it means there is a bit more room, power points for laptops free drinks and snacks, newspapers etc. Groovy! The sun has set at 5pm so no sea views for me sadly – will make that a priority next time!

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